Certain types of grass can handle low amounts of sunlight, while others require near full sun to thrive. For those who live in HOA communities, you’ll want to check which type of sod options for your needs that they’ll allow you to put in. We’ve put together many different options and their character traits for you to review. All varieties are options for zone 8a-10b. Those that live in the Central Florida area and need help with sod removal and installation, we’re here to lend a hand as well.

Which Type Of Sod Fits My Needs

St. Augustine Varieties

Floratam: Floratam is the most widely produced St. Augustine sod in Florida. This St. Augustine grass was specifically designed for hot, humid climates making it perfect for Florida sod projects. Floratam will not survive in areas with less than 6 hours of sunlight daily. The blades are a dark green-blue, and the leaves are wide and coarse.

Seville: Seville St. Augustine sod is a dwarf variety with a dark green color and low growth habit. Seville is one of the better options for St. Augustine grass options when it comes to shade tolerance in Florida sod projects. It handles full sun, partial shade, and dense shade areas very well. The downfall is the cold tolerance; it does not do well with extreme cold making this an option for Central to South Florida only.

Palmetto: Palmetto is often referred to as a semi-dwarf St. Augustine grass variety with shorter growth habit and internodes, but the blades are slightly larger than other St. Augustine sod such as Captiva, Sapphire, and Seville. Palmetto’s grass blades are a light emerald green and do well in full sun to partial shade in Florida. Sodding Palmetto in dense shade is not recommended (areas with less than 4 hours of sunlight).

Bitter Blue: Bitter Blue is better known for is dark blueish-green color and texture. Bitter blue blades are coarse, and broad, with large, flat stems. It is tolerant of shade, cold weather, and is well adapted to most soils making it a great option for residential and commercial sod projects.

Empire Zoysia

Empire Zoysia: Empire Zoysia is a full sun and partial shade tolerant grass. Zoysia also tolerates heat, cold and drought making this grass ideal for any Florida sod project. The blades are thin and hardy, yet soft enough to enjoy barefoot while partaking in activities. Tight blade growth gives Empire Zoysia a deep green color and is a favorite among hardy turf grass. Commonly used throughout golf courses, hotel resorts, theme parks, and residential communities in the Florida area. This deep dark green color will make your neighbors jealous and add major curb appeal.

Bermuda

Celebration Bermuda: Celebration is a striking deep blue-green bermudagrass that has finished best in numerous university research studies for wear tolerance and recovery, drought resistance and tolerance and bermudagrass shade tolerance. Found in professional and college sports venues, golf courses, and home lawn. It has an excellent wear and divot recovery, reduced fertilization making this our preferred choice for any Florida sod service project.

Bahia

Argentine Bahia: At From the Ground Up we provide one type of Bahia for Florida sod service projects. Argentine Bahia, this Bahia sod is ideal for homeowners and offices working with a cheaper budget. It requires minimal attention, but proper watering is required.

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Spring is nearly here and what better way to celebrate it than hitting the gardens and installing some colorful perennials to brighten up the lawn. Perennial plants are the backbone of every landscaping garden project.

Unlike annuals they die back to the groundeach year and resurface from their rootstock in the spring time. They generally go through a vegetative reproduction and mainly come in bulbs vs. annuals which will drop seeds to continue the life cycle.

There are many different varieties to choose from. Some will attract butterflies and bees; others will simply add brilliant shades of blue, reds and yellows. Be careful when choosing the right bulbs for your garden, check to make sure they’ll thrive in your plant hardiness zone and what sunlight conditions they require here in Orlando and Central Florida.

How To Landscape With Perennials

Perennials can be short-lived (three years), and some may only flower once (monocarpic) but for the majority of perennials, you’ll be rewarded with a flowering cycle throughout their life (polycarpic). Some species of perennials will last year round; these are evergreen perennials.

Others in temperate climates will grow and bloom during the warm season while losing its foliage in the colder months (deciduous). In some parts of the world, the cycle is determined by wet and dry seasons (tropical). Planting perennials outside of their hardiness zone can reduce their life span and turn them into annuals.

If your soil is clay-like and heavy, it should be spaded and rototilled to a depth of 12”-18” then mix in some nutrients and organic material such as compost, peat moss, sand or other light material. Even if you have adequate drainage and quality soil, you’ll need to till up and prep the ground for installation to a depth of 12”.

Perennial Plants Have Value

The professional landscaper and avid gardener will form a healthy blend of trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals along with different shapes and size when designing a project. Trees and shrubs are main fixtures, whereas perennials provide the majority of the color you’ll see in a well put together a garden.

Perennials range from coneflowers and daylilies to ornamental grasses. There’re sun perennial and shade perennial options available, as well as, a wide range of shapes and sizes along with different colors. Go out there and spruce up your flower beds with a variety of perennials, landscaping your garden is the outdoor canvas, paint away. Remember the folks here at From the Ground Up Landscaping are here to help design and create flower beds or any other outdoor project no matter the size.

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Lawn Watering Guide and Questions

Q. How many days should I water my grass?

A. First off it is very important to conserve and use as little amount of water as possible to maintain a healthy lawn. Again, for this one local county laws are different for everyone so check the amount of days and what days of the week you are allowed to water. You’ll want to water two days a week in the summer months and one day a week in the winter months adjusting the time accordingly. Set the timer for a Monday/Thursday, Tuesday/Friday, Wednesday/Saturday, or a Thursday/Sunday schedule. During some weeks in the summer months, you may be able to turn the system off as long as the grass blades are not wilted and bent inward, this is a sign of drought.

Q. What time should I start and end my watering?

A. Water in the early mornings ending the cycle as the sun rises (between 7-7:30 am) or in the late evenings when winds and evaporation are at their lowest (start time 9 pm). Watering between the hours of 10am-7pm is completely a waste of time and money. During these hours evaporation is at its peak, preventing the water to absorb into the soil. Not all irrigation systems are the same; some have 2 zones others have 20+. Depending on the amount of zones and the amount of minutes for each zone, start time will vary. Again it is important to have the last bit of water hitting the lawn by 7:30 am or as the sun is rising.

Q. How long should I water each zone?

A. The first step is to determine what type of soil you have. If it is a mucky base that retains water for a lengthy amount of time, you will not need to water as often. If it is a dry, sandy base, watering times may need to be increased. Runoff is another factor. If there are areas that slope down, water retention may be slowed down resulting in an increase of watering time.

Irrigating My Lawn

Pay attention to the grass, if the blades are folding inward, this is a sign of drought and an increase in minutes may be needed. Lawns only need about 3/4″ of water per each watering cycle or equivalent to a small tuna fish can. Simply place the cans or measuring cups outside throughout the lawn and turn the system on for twenty minutes. If the cans or measuring cups are full, then twenty minutes is enough time. However if the can or cups are not quite full, the time per zone needs to be adjusted accordingly.

By following these steps along with a proper mowing and fertilization regimen, your lawn will thrive and reap the benefits.

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With some marginally hardy perennials, leaving the stems up for the winter aids in overwintering. The foliage helps to insulate the crowns. Mums seem to benefit a great deal from this practice. Another reason to leave stems stand is that if the perennial is a late riser in the spring, the stems will help to mark the spot and prevent any accidental digging in the area that might harm the underground portions of the plant.

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