There are many great ways to install and use artificial turf. Putting greens, pet grasses, playgrounds and lawns are all practical installations that deliver long lasting results. Most manufactures offer a 15-year warranty on the grass and many times, 25 plus years is not out the realm of life expectancy. There is up front cost that initially make artificial turf out the price range for most but within 8 years the savings will start to overcome the up-front cost, saving you thousands in the long run.

Zero Watering Required

Watering is become problematic, especially in dry, arid climates like Southern California and Arizona. But watering issues aren’t limited to these areas alone, according to new studies that are researched by the University of Florida and the Florida Department of Agriculture, certain areas in Florida have sufficient fresh water for the next 15-20 years only. Watering restrictions are becoming a nation-wide issue that needs addressing.

Artificial turf eliminates the need for any watering, zero, none, never ever. If you have pets, the only time you’ll use water is to give it a weekly rinse off and this is very minimal. Outside of xeriscaping you really can’t find an easy, low to zero watering landscape that delivers the look of natural, healthy grass or plants like fake grass.

Zero Mowing Necessary

Mowing has always been a dreaded weekly choir that can take precious hours away from everyday life or money paid towards a maintenance crew. Not only is it a sweaty, time consuming choir but it requires mowers that put out as much as ten times the carbon emissions that vehicles produce. Recently the government has issued emission regulations on all vehicles and most manufacturers are offering electric options. Nothing significant has been put into action for mowers and maintenance equipment to regulate these emissions.

Installing a fake grass lawn eliminates the need of mowing which is beneficial for not only the environment, but your pocket as well. The money saved on equipment needed for maintenance or the cost of hiring a service company to maintain it on a weekly basis adds up over time.

Zero Fertilizers Needed

Maintaining a healthy lawn is a tough task, and it usually boils down to three components, two of which we’ve covered, watering and mowing but the third is fertilization. There are numerous issues that can take place in the lawn, different deficiencies, pest and fungus’s can pop up at any moment and require immediate attention to minimize damage. Many people will turn to fertilizers and chemicals to treat these and other issues on a monthly or bi monthly basis.

These chemicals can seep into the water table or sediments can runoff into ponds, creeks, lakes, rivers and damage our fresh water sources. This is harmful and leads to further carbon emissions needed to clean and filter through these water sources. Outside of the environmental impact is the cost of the chemicals, they add up over time too.

Synthetic grass requires zero fertilizers. Never worry about pest, fungus’s or damaged areas that will lead to re sodding in the future. By eliminating the needs of harmful fertilizers and chemicals you can save 100s of dollars a year!

The Savings Add Up

Between the cost of maintenance or the equipment need to perform the task yourself, fertilization and watering needed to maintain a healthy lawn you can save hundreds and maybe thousands each year with an artificial grass lawn.

Let’s say the average maintenance fee is $100 a month for a full lawn, the monthly watering is $40 and monthly fertilization is $50. The total would add up to be $1,200 for the mowing, $480 for watering and $600 for the fertilization. That’s $2,280 a year in up keep plus the time and struggle. Not to mention the cost needed for the occasional re-sodding of damaged areas and or equipment needed and any repair bills that come along the way.

Most people aren’t installing artificial turf throughout the entire property so lets say you’re using it in the backyard only. This would cut cost down by half!

It’s easy to see all the amazing benefits that installing an artificial lawn brings to the table. And with the many uses it has, this is the way to go for a long lasting, healthier and beautiful outdoor landscape.

The post What Makes Artificial Grass a Good Choice appeared first on From the Ground Up Landscaping Inc.

Here are my top 10 most underused plants that have to meet a strict criteria:

They must to grow well in our area, with a minimum of care (OK- you still have to water them- but little else.) They must have several attractive characteristics (i.e Beautiful bark AND leaves, OR great flowers AND branching pattern,etc.) they must not be on every street corner- so we can create a unique look when they are used. Take a look at these selections by zone:

UNDERUSED PLANTS FOR ZONE 7-8

1. Chionanthus Virginicus – (Fringetree). This small to medium tree has beautiful blooms in the spring. Soft green leaves and fringe like blooms give the tree its name. grows to 20-25 ‘ tall at maturity.
2. Edgeworthia chrusanthua – (Paperbush.) This blooms when very little else is in EARLY spring. Great fragrance to the blooms- a nice touch to the late/winter/early spring landscape. Use as a small specimen tree or focal point- grows 6-10’ tall and wide.
3. Cytstisus scoparius – (Scotch Broom.) Very attractive branching pattern, leaves and blooms. Great blooms in the early spring- deer resistant too! Will grow to 3’ tall and wide.
4. Illisium floridatum – (Anise.) You will notice some crossover with this plant, also doing well in zones 9-10. Again, I Love the red blooms and evergreen foliage. Use as a large hedge, screen or accent plant.
5. Abelia ‘Kaleidoscope’– Gorgeous full sun evergreen. Variegated green and yellow foliage on red stems. White flowers in spring and will grow to a mature height of 2.5’- 3’ tall and wide.
6. Corylus contorta – ( Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick.) “Stick’ this in your yard (no pun intended) for a great conversation piece. I also see it quite often in a  container- but it would eventually have to be moved to allow the plant to fill out.
7. Cedrus atlantica – (Blue Atlas Cedar.) This large evergreen will make a statement in any garden. I love the steel blue foliage and striking branching pattern. Great for a unique look in the winter landscape. Ultimately grows to 15-20’ tall and 6-10 wide after 10 years.
8. Sarcococca ruscifolia – (Sweetbox.) Small evergreen shrub- 2.5’ ht at maturity. The flowers are fragrant and it is a deer resistant resistant plant.
9. Hellebore orientalis – (Coral Bells.) Blooms in the winter about when the Paperbush is blooming. The star shaped evergreen foliage is beautiful year round and stands about 2’ tall in height. The pink/white blooms emerge in winter and persist until after the last frost.
10. Viburnum x burkwoodii ‘Mohawk’- (‘Mohawk Burkwood Viburnum)- Gorgeous semi-evergreen Viburnum that boasts fragrant white flowers in spring. Needs partial to full sun and grows to a mature height of 6-12’ tall.

UNDERUSED PLANTS FOR ZONE 9-10

1. Feijoa sellowiana (Pineapple Guava)- Versatile and easy to grow, this evergreen landscape plant boasts edible flowers and tropical fruit! It is a moderate grower- growing 10- 15 feet tall at maturity. The lovely hue of the gray green foliage shows well in contrast to the beautiful white flowers in early summer. Tasty guava-like fruit becomes ripe in late fall. Landscape uses can be specimen tree, or can be pruned to a hedge.
2. Illisium floridatum – (Anise.) You will notice some crossover with this plant, also doing well in zones 7-8. Again, I Love the red blooms and evergreen foliage. The Mexican variety has very red fragrant flowers and prefers moist conditions with full sun to shade. Lower understory shrub 3-4’ tall and wide.
3. Fastia japonica (Japanese Aralia)– This beautiful understory evergreen also does remarkably well in zone 8. Love the large star shaped leaves. Also available in a variegated variety. Flowers and fruits in winter, prefers a shady site. Grows to a mature height of 5’ tall and wide.
4. Vitex Agnus Castus- (Chaste Tree)- Beautiful alternative to the Crape Myrtle in zones 7-9. Has beautiful terminal clusters of fragrant purple flowers in summer. Also has aromatic gray/green foliage and attractive multi branching truck. Can be used as a specimen tree or large shrub. Deciduous, growing to a mature height of 15-25’ tall.
5. Ravenala madagascariensis-(Traveler’s Palm)- This large specimen is not a palm at all, but closer to a banana or Bird of Paradise. Use in zones 9B to 10Needs full sun to only part shade. Landscape uses are as a single LARGE specimen or large accent plant. Give it plenty of room as it grows 30’ tall.
6. Bauhinia x blakeana- (Hong Kong Orchid Tree)-Considered by many as one of the most beautiful tropical landscape trees. This semi evergreen, long blooming tree boasts gorgeous purple flowers in late fall/early winter. Prefers full sun and grows to a mature height of 20-25’ tall.
7. Chaenomeles speciosa- (Flowering Quince)- Medium to large deciduous shrub growing 3-5’ tall. Flowers in early spring and persists through summer. Fruit is attractive and tasty to birds. Many new varieties boast deep red, orange and light pink flowers. Zone 5- 9 only.
8. Nephrolepis biserrata-  (Macho Fern)- Also known as the Giant Sword fern, this is a large presence in the tropical garden. The fronds can reach 4’ long- with the entire plant encompassing a 6’ space, so give it plenty of room. Give the Macho Fern partial shade and moist soil for it to do its best.
9. Brugmansia- (Angel’s Trumpet)- Beautiful pendulous, tubular flowers bloom on this deciduous small tree/shrub in the late summer, fall. This plant is poisonous, so use with caution in some applications. Grows from 3 to 20’ tall, depending on the variety and 5-8’ wide.
10. Polystichum setiferum-(Soft Sheild Fern)-Semi- Evergreen fern that will grow to a mature height of 2-3’ tall. The outstanding foliage is feathery and dark green. Can adapt to dry shade conditions once established.

Incorporate these into your new landscape and get your neighbor’s talking! These selections are definitely not on every street corner and will add beauty and interest to your unique landscape. Enjoy highlighting the lawn with unique plants and happy gardening!

About the Author:

Lori Hawkins, RLA, ASLA has been a practicing landscape architect out of the Greensboro, NC area since 1999. Residential and Commercial landscape design using 3D imaging technology is her specialty. You can read her blog and see more about her work at www.HawkinsLA.com

The post The Most Underused Plants appeared first on From the Ground Up Landscaping Inc.

Indіvіduаl ріесеѕ оf flаgѕtоnе mаkе fоr аn еxсеllеnt раth. Thеу сlеаrlу dеfіnе a rоutе іn аn аttrасtіvе manner. Thеу аrе nоt ѕlірреrу whеn wеt (duе tо thеіr rоugh ѕurfасеѕ). Thеу еаѕіlу аnd оrgаnісаllу ѕlір іntо a lаndѕсаре wіthоut саllіng tоо muсh аttеntіоn tо thеmѕеlvеѕ.

Wаlkwауѕ аnd раthѕ аrе a раrt оf аlmоѕt аnу lаndѕсаре, but thеу dоn’t аlwауѕ gеt thе аttеntіоn thеу dеѕеrvе. Thе wау a wаlkwау іѕ dеѕіgnеd саn hаvе a major іmрасt оn уоur landscape. If уоu nееd tо dеѕіgn a wаlkwау оr раth, tаkе ѕоmе tіmе tо undеrѕtаnd your орtіоnѕ. Lеt’ѕ ѕtаrt bу tаkіng a lооk аt whаt flagstone wаlkwауѕ аrе аll аbоut.

What Are Walkways Good For?

Thіѕ ԛuеѕtіоn ѕееmѕ hаrmlеѕѕ еnоugh, but thе аnѕwеr іѕ nоt аѕ ѕtrаіghtfоrwаrd аѕ іt mау ѕееm. Thе рrіmаrу рurроѕе оf a wаlkwау іѕ tо gіvе a ѕturdу ѕurfасе tо hіgh trаffіс areas. Wіthоut a wаlkwау ѕurfасе, fооt trаffіс wоuld еrоdе thе grоund аnd еvеntuаllу lеаvе a раth оf dіrt (оr mud!). Of соurѕе, nоbоdу lіkеѕ a muddу раth, but thеrе аrе mаnу оthеr rеаѕоnѕ tо іnѕtаll a great looking flagstone wаlkwау.

Hеrе аrе a fеw:

• Dеfіnеs a bоrdеr
• Dіrесt fооt trаffіс in a рrеfеrrеd dіrесtіоn
• Add vіѕuаl іntеrеѕt tо thе lаndѕсаре
• Drаw реорlе іntо a garden оr lаndѕсаре
• Intrоduсе a hаrdѕсаре mаtеrіаl іntо a gаrdеn

Sоmеtіmеѕ a flagstone wаlkwау is іntrоduсеd рurеlу fоr thеіr аеѕthеtіс vаluе. Thе stepping ѕtоnе (оr оthеr gаrdеn раth, wаlkwау ѕurfасе) оf a wаlkwау саn рrоvіdе a vаluаblе соntrаѕt іn thе lаndѕсаре. Gаrdеn раthѕ саn аlѕо bе uѕеd tо іntrоduсе сurvеѕ аnd drаw thе еуе tо parts оf a gаrdеn thаt mіght оthеrwіѕе gо unnоtісеd. For diy flagstone walkway installation tips check this video out.

Benefits of Installing a Flagstone Walkway

Whаt mаkеѕ flаgѕtоnе ѕо арреаlіng іn wаlkwауѕ thrоughоut the country? Tо bеgіn wіth, соnѕіdеr thе fоllоwіng bеnеfіtѕ:

1. Attrасtіvе lооk. Flаgѕtоnе wаlkwауѕ оffеr a unіԛuе, nаturаl lооk. Stоnеѕ tурісаllу соmе іn vаrуіng ѕhареѕ аnd ѕіzеѕ—еvеn соlоrѕ—аnd соmе tоgеthеr tо create a dіѕtіnсt dеѕіgn аnd rаndоm, іrrеgulаr раttеrn.
2. Durаbіlіtу. Sіnсе wаlkwауѕ nееd tо wіthѕtаnd fооt trаffіс аnd еxtrеmе wеаthеr аt tіmеѕ, іt’ѕ іmроrtаnt tо сhооѕе a mаtеrіаl thаt саn hаndlе rеgulаr uѕе. Flаgѕtоnе іѕ rеѕіѕtаnt tо frееzіng аnd dоеѕ not rеасt tо hоt tеmреrаturеѕ, humіdіtу, оr ѕnоw.
3. Lоw mаіntеnаnсе. Flаgѕtоnе іѕ соnѕіdеrеd a lоw-mаіntеnаnсе раvеr thаt оnlу nееdѕ оссаѕіоnаl ѕwееріng or blowing off tо rеmоvе dіrt.

And mоrе!

Design Your Walkway From The Beginning

Aѕ аlwауѕ, уоu nееd tо dеfіnе a gоаl fоr уоur wаlkwау. Iѕ thе рurроѕе оf уоur wаlkwау juѕt tо рrоtесt thе grаѕѕ frоm bеіng trаmрlеd? Wіll іt аdd аеѕthеtіс vаluе tо уоur уаrd? Wіll the flagstone walkway design hаvе аnу оthеr рurроѕе? Aѕk уоurѕеlf thеѕе ԛuеѕtіоnѕ bеfоrе gоіng fоrwаrd. Dоn’t undеrеѕtіmаtе thе іmрасt оf a wеll-dеѕіgnеd wаlkwау. Mоѕt hоmеоwnеrѕ dоn’t рut еnоugh thоught іntо раthѕ аnd wаlkwауѕ аnd thеу mіѕѕ a grеаt орроrtunіtу tо еnhаnсе thеіr lаndѕсаре.

Lay It Out

Onсе уоu undеrѕtаnd whаt уоu wаnt frоm уоur wаlkwау, gо аhеаd аnd lау іt оut. Yоu саn рrасtісе wіth lеngthѕ оf gаrdеn hоѕе. Whеn уоu’rе lауіng оut уоur dеѕіgn, thіnk аbоut whо wіll uѕе уоur раth аnd hоw thеу wіll uѕе іt. If іt’ѕ a hіgh trаffіс wаlkwау, уоu mіght wаnt іt wіdе еnоugh tо ассоmmоdаtе twо оr mоrе реорlе wаlkіng ѕіdе bу ѕіdе. Gаrdеn раthѕ саn bе nаrrоwеr. If уоur wаlkwау іѕ thе mаіn еntrаnсе tо уоur hоmе, mаkе іt gеnеrоuѕlу wіdе – 48 іnсhеѕ (1.2 mеtеrѕ) аt a mіnіmum. Mоѕt раthwауѕ lооk bеttеr wіth сurvеѕ, but thіѕ dереndѕ оn thе dеѕіgn оf thе ѕurrоundіng hоmе аnd lаndѕсаре.

Here Are Some Things To Keep In Mind

1. Bе аwаrе оf thе ѕрасеѕ уоu аrе сrеаtіng wіth уоur wаlkwау. A wаlkwау wіll dіvіdе уоur уаrd іn ѕоmе wау. Mаkе ѕurе уоu dоn’t сrеаtе аwkwаrd ѕрасеѕ wіth thіѕ dіvіѕіоn.
2. Kеер уоur gоаl іn mіnd. Hіgh trаffіс wаlkwауѕ ѕhоuld bе wіdеr аnd mоrе dіrесt thаn gаrdеn раthѕ. Nо оnе wаntѕ tо саrrу grосеrіеѕ dоwn a gаrdеn раth! Sсеnіс раthѕ саn bе thіnnеr аnd mоrе wіndіng. Thеу ѕhоuld ѕhоw оff thеіr ѕurrоundіngѕ.
3. If уоu lіvе іn a сlіmаtе wіth a соld wіntеr, thіnk оf hоw уоur wаlkwау wіll fаrе іn thе ѕnоw аnd icy соndіtіоnѕ.
4. Mаkе ѕurе уоur раth соmрlіmеntѕ уоur lаndѕсаре аnd hоmе dеѕіgn. Thе lіnеѕ оf уоur wаlkwау ѕhоuld rеflесt thе lіnеѕ рrеѕеnt іn thе rеѕt оf уоur lаndѕсаре. If уоu’rе nоt ѕurе whаt’ѕ bеѕt, іt’ѕ uѕuаllу ѕаfе tо gо with ѕhаllоw ѕwееріng сurvеѕ. Stееr сlеаr of ѕtrаіght lіnеѕ оr drаmаtіс сurvеѕ unlеѕѕ уоu’rе ѕurе thеу’ll fіt іntо уоur lаndѕсаре.

Trу lауіng оut уоur wаlkwау ѕеvеrаl dіffеrеnt wауѕ аnd ѕее whісh wау fееlѕ bеѕt. Onсе уоu’vе gоt іt dоwn, mаrk bоth еdgеѕ wіth mаrkіng раіnt аnd lіvе wіth іt fоr a fеw dауѕ. Thіѕ wіll gіvе уоu a сhаnсе tо ѕее hоw іt wоrkѕ.

Mоѕt hоmеоwnеrѕ dесіdе tо рut іn a wаlkwау bесаuѕе thеу nееd tо rерlасе аn еxіѕtіng оnе, оr thеу nееd ассеѕѕ tо a ѕресіfіс раrt оf thеіr уаrd. If уоu hаvе a lаrgе gаrdеn, уоu соuld соnѕіdеr аddіng a раth оr wаlkwау tо аdd іntеrеѕt аnd соntrаѕt. Wаlkwауѕ drаw реорlе іntо a gаrdеn аnd mаkе a grеаt fосаl роіnt еvеn іf thеу аrе nеvеr uѕеd.

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Landscaping with pine needles in flower beds is super beneficial. Pine needles will lock in moisture for your plants and vegetables maximizing the health and strength of root systems. The amount of pests attracted to pine needles is far less than other options such as mulch or pine bark.

Pine needles go overlooked when it’s time to decide on which landscape material to install in flower beds or vegetable gardens. Maybe it’s the fact that most landscaping nurseries or landscape supply stores don’t usually carry them, or maybe it’s because people prefer a loose product or a bundled product? Whatever the reasoning, devote your attention to pine needles.

Why Use Pine Needles For Landscaping

Most of the time with mulch and pine bark products, there will be a nice 4-6 month period where the colors will be bright and vibrant. The mulch and pine bark can only handle the scorching sun for so long before the colors fade and a weary gray color begins to settle in. Pine straw can last several years before needing to be replaced. If you want to keep it vibrant, you can simply apply a thin layer on top to spruce it up once a year.

Another strong benefit pine straw: its ability to block out weeds. No matter what you ultimately choose to use as your landscape material, you’ll always fight with weeds, but with pine straw, you’ll save yourself some time. The deeper you install the beds, the more light they’ll block out, containing the weeds further. The same can be said for mulch and pine bark. However, pine needles will not blow away with a strong wind or float away with a heavy downpour. Pine straw stays compact and will not move, making it a great option for hills and slopes as well.

Environmental Impact With Pine Needles vs Mulch, Rubber or Pine Bark

After you factor in all the performance upgrades pine needles provide, it’s time to evaluate the economic and financial impacts. Most products such as mulch, pine bark or rubber mulch contain dyes and are not harvested naturally exhausting earth’s resources.

Using pine needles is as natural as it gets. They fall off of the tree limbs vs. mulch or pine bark which is shaven off the sides of trees that have been cut down in the forest to be used for lumber or numerous other purposes. Rubber mulch brings the worst economic impact to the table, so let’s not go there.

Switching to pine straw is just another way to create a beautiful landscape while lending a helping hand to Mother Nature.

The Savings Are Real When Landscaping With Pine Needles

Beyond what positive economic impact pine needles provide, there’s another impact, financial. To cover a 10’ x 10’ area at 2.5” – 3” depth, you’ll need approximately 11 2.5 cubic ft bags of either mulch or pine bark at about $2.50 per bag. Using pine needles, you need only two bales at $5 – $7 per bale. Per a 1,000 sq ft area, that’s a cost of $275 plus tax for mulch and pine bark vs. $100-$140 for pine needles. That adds up!

In sum, using pine straw instead of mulch will reduce the cost of your landscaping project, and give flower beds longevity, while providing positive economic impacts. For all of these reasons, landscaping with pine needles should be your go-to choice. There are many different ways to to incorporate pine needles into your landscape environment. Not matter how you decide to incorporate them, know that you’re making a difference and that is what counts more than anything.

If you have questions or would like to see if we are in you service area, we’re always here to help in anyway.

The post Landscaping with Pine Needles appeared first on From the Ground Up Landscaping Inc.

Skipping one of these steps or rushing any of them can prove fatal for the sod, you’ll want to pay close attention. Caring for new grass can require a lot of water, please be respectful to rivers and aquifers by limiting the amount of water used. Use the following as a guide for new sod care instructions.

New Sod Installations Care Steps

The first step after the sod installation has been completed – set up an initial chemical treatment for the grass. You’ll want to have this performed within the first five days after installation; we recommend treatment within three days for best results. Most homeowners will want to try and attempt this on their own, we highly recommend using a professional fertilization service for the first treatment and for those sod companies who issue a 30-day guarantee, this is a must.

This initial treatment will include a double shot of micro-nutrients to ensure root development and a fungicide to protect the sod from becoming susceptible to any fungus that may occur. For the first 4 weeks we’ll be watering frequently which increases the risk of funguses. Funguses are more likely to occur in the summer months when moisture and temperatures are at their peak, so keep a watchful eye during the summer season.

General practice is wait 15 to 30 days after liquid treatment and then apply a granular fertilizer. If you wish to fertilize on your own, under no conditions should you over apply fertilizers, this could potentially burn the root system and cause the grass to die. We recommend a liquid treatment bi monthly and a granular treatment 2-3 times a year from this point on as well. For weed treatments and other applications, check with you local do it yourself supply center.

How Much To Water New Sod

The second step, once the sod has been installed, set up a watering schedule. The goal is to keep the soil underneath the sod pieces wet at all times within the first 3-5 weeks. Follow the schedules below and adjust according to any signs of drought or over watering. Signs of drought will include the grass blades to be folded in, graying grass coloring or the soil underneath the sod is dry. Signs of over-watering, which can lead to a fungus, include puddling, stepping on the grass and soil appearing on top or footprints remaining after stepping in the area.

Check underneath the pieces daily for the first week to adjust watering schedule if needed. Set each pop up zone(these are the ones that have a continual spray in the same areas) on for 30-35 minutes and 45-60 minutes for the rotors(these are the ones that are jet stream and rotate from side to side). Make the proper adjustments if there’s too much or too little water hitting the ground. Each zone should produce 3/4″ – 1″ of water every watering cycle. Shut off the irrigation system in the presence of moderate to heavy rainfall. 

Watering Time Week by Week for New Sod

For the first 7-14 days water 5-6 days a week, once a day in late spring, early fall and summer months (between 3 am and 7 am). Water every day if the soil is dry in the early evening time or rainfall has not been present in a while. Try to start with 5 days a week to prevent over-watering.

For the first 7-14 days 4-5 days a week, once a day during late fall, early spring and winter months (between 3am and 7am). This could be increased to every day if the soil is dry in the evening time or rainfall has not been present in a while. Watering at nights below 45 could stun root development and shock the grass potentially resulting in permanent damage. Be sure to shut the system off these nights.

For days 14-28, cut the watering down to once a day for 2-4 days a week starting at 3 am. Increase the days as needed. After the 28 day period, check you local watering laws and abide with their watering limits and resume normal watering scheduling.

Mowing Instructions for New Sod

When is the best time to start mowing? You can begin mowing once the root system is established. To determine when the root system is established simply tug a piece of sod, don’t yank on it, just enough to see if the piece will lift up at all. If it does not, you are ready to start mowing.This usually takes 7-14 days.

If the lines are still visible don’t worry, this is normal and you are in the clear. The goal here is not to remove more than a third of the grass during each mow. For the first time, you’ll need to set the mower height at the highest possible setting. After the first mow, gradually bring the mowing height lower each mow until you reach a desired height. Example, the grass is at 7”, you’ll need to set the mower to 5” then wait till the second mowing to bring it down lower.

The type of grass you have will determine the mowing height. Check out your grass specific guideline.

If you ever have any issues during the establishment period call your Orlando and Central Florida local sod care specialist to assist you – 219-741-3939.

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Grass Installation Process

Before we start any part of the grass installation process, we need to make sure a few things have been handled. One, make sure that any debris in the area is removed and the dirt properly graded. Second, run the irrigation system to check for leaky heads or any breaks that may be present. We do not want to do any repairs or regrading once the grass goes down. After the irrigation system is up and running, run the system for about 30 minutes during night to compact the soil.

Moreover, thirdly, we want to choose the type of grass that best fits your wants and needs. Knowing these two things will decide the type of grass we will be installing. Functionality, soil, sunlight and aesthetics will be determining factors in choosing the right fit as there are several different sod varieties to choose from. For a more in-depth view of each type of sod, visit our sod variety page(for those in zone 8 to 10).

How to Install Grass Step By Step

Follow these step for how to lay grass sod the right way. Now that we’ve prepped the areas properly, the irrigation system is up and running, and you’ve decided the grass variety that best fits your needs we are ready for the grass installation process.

The starting point does not matter, but for those wanting to maximize efficiency and minimize cut-ins and cut-outs, it is best to start from the edge of the grass and flower beds working your way towards the concrete. For example, you are replacing your easement which extends into the neighbor’s yard, which you are only replacing your section, start from the grass line(the edge of your neighbors lawn) and work towards the concrete. For a step by step instructional video that shows you how to check this page out.

Doing this will eliminate cut-ins that would otherwise be necessary if you were to work from the concrete towards the grass. No matter which staring point you choose, you’ll still have to cut pieces to fit and cut out grass extending over the concrete.

When installing sod pieces (usually 16”x24” each), you can work them horizontally or vertically. Whichever direction you choose, be sure to continue that way the entire length, if not you could potentially leave small gaps and spacing that will need to be plugged up with cut-ins (time-consuming).

While installing the sod, be sure that each piece of grass is snugly connected to all pieces near it, this will eliminate spacing. Too much spacing or big gaps could lead to a potential weed uprising or allow seeds germinate. If this happens you are either facing three options. One, spend money on chemicals to try and combat the weeds. Two, re-sod the areas, this will cost more money. Three, do nothing and let the weeds take over. It’s best to avoid any of these options and install the grass snugly.

After you’ve learned how to lay grass sod and have completed your grass installation project, it’s time to learn how to care for your new sod. Fertilization, mowing and proper watering are crucial steps in maintain a healthy lawn.

The Final Steps of Installing New Grass

When all the grass installation is finished, you are left with cut-ins and cut-outs. There are many tools and techniques you can use to cut the grass just the way you need it. Some people use knives or machetes; we like to use a stick edger. Using a stick edger not only leaves a cleaner cut but speeds up the process tremendously, especially on larger projects.

Once everything is finished, it is time to adjust the sprinkler heads for coverage and schedule the timer accordingly. Following these steps and tips will speed up the process and give you direction if you were unsure of where to begin. We are always a phone call away if you need a professional sod service to help with any of your grass installation project needs.

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Grass Removal Process

We’ll begin with spraying the entire area with a professional grade weed killer or powerful homemade organic weed killer. This is the most important process when learning how to remove grass. Allow the chemical to set in for up to 10 days before removing any grass, if the weeds aren’t fully dead after 6 or 7 days, respray to make sure everything is killed off.

We want to do this, so that majority of the root systems die out. This will set us up for success in the long-run. The grass removal process is just a surface cut and removal of the weeds and grass. Most of the weeds and grass root systems can go down as far as three feet. If we don’t use a pre-spray, the chances of weeds popping back up are significantly increased. The phrase that everyone knows is “the best offense is a great defense” this is true when learning how to remove grass.

How To Prepare The Lawn For Grass Installation

After we’ve sprayed and determined the grass dead, we can start the grass removal process. There are three types of machines you can use, a sod cutter, skid steer (i.e. bobcat or caterpillars) or soil cultivator. The size of your property may determine the process of how to remove grass. If you have a large property 1/2 of an acre or more a skid steer or soil cultivator will be more efficient.

Sod Cutter Vs Skid Steers

One downfall with using a skid steer is that you may damage irrigation rotors and heads. You might also remove a lot more soil than if you’re using a sod cutter and dumping fees could quickly escalate. Another downfall is the grading process and achieving proper slopes become a lot harder and require a great deal of skill is most cases. This type of grass removal process can become difficult for inexperienced homeowners. For these reasons, we recommend the average homeowner should stick to using a sod cutter.

Grass Removal With A Soil Cultivator

When it comes to the grass removal process, set the sod cutter blade at the one inch setting. This will set the machine up to only remove 1” of base soil, and this will be plenty for a smooth and bare surface. Most grass sod that you’ll be installing will come with a 1″ base underneath the surface.

After you’ve cut all the desired areas with either machine, you’ll want to pick up the majority of the grass. If you’re using a soil culivator or skid steer these step wont really matter to much as each machine removes the laborious part of the grass removal process. Some people use rakes and shoves to clean the surface off, we find it much easier and faster to use a wide set pitchfork.

Either method will expose the edges that the machines you were not able to get to with the machines. To remove these edges, they’re a few different options. You can choose the good old fashion shovels, hard rakes or hoes to clean them up, or we like to use a stick edgers or weed eaters. The rotating edger blade and or weed acts as a mini tiller and speeds the process up significantly. The weed eater eliminates majority of the soil kicking back unlike the edger. Either option is faster than you traditional removal tools.

How to Remove Grass and Grading Proper Slopes

Once all the debris has been removed, and soil is bare, we begin our grading. In most instances we’ll want to attempt leaving a flat down and outward grade away from the house. Not all are the same and creating certain grades can be difficult, especially those with dramatic slopes and hills.The important thing when leaving slopes and grading is to eliminate any dips that will cause puddling of water. As long as the surface is smooth you should be in good shape.

For those who find this to be a strenuous task, see if we’re in your local area and seek our sod services.

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Certain types of grass can handle low amounts of sunlight, while others require near full sun to thrive. For those who live in HOA communities, you’ll want to check which type of sod options for your needs that they’ll allow you to put in. We’ve put together many different options and their character traits for you to review. All varieties are options for zone 8a-10b. Those that live in the Central Florida area and need help with sod removal and installation, we’re here to lend a hand as well.

Which Type Of Sod Fits My Needs

St. Augustine Varieties

Floratam: Floratam is the most widely produced St. Augustine sod in Florida. This St. Augustine grass was specifically designed for hot, humid climates making it perfect for Florida sod projects. Floratam will not survive in areas with less than 6 hours of sunlight daily. The blades are a dark green-blue, and the leaves are wide and coarse.

Seville: Seville St. Augustine sod is a dwarf variety with a dark green color and low growth habit. Seville is one of the better options for St. Augustine grass options when it comes to shade tolerance in Florida sod projects. It handles full sun, partial shade, and dense shade areas very well. The downfall is the cold tolerance; it does not do well with extreme cold making this an option for Central to South Florida only.

Palmetto: Palmetto is often referred to as a semi-dwarf St. Augustine grass variety with shorter growth habit and internodes, but the blades are slightly larger than other St. Augustine sod such as Captiva, Sapphire, and Seville. Palmetto’s grass blades are a light emerald green and do well in full sun to partial shade in Florida. Sodding Palmetto in dense shade is not recommended (areas with less than 4 hours of sunlight).

Bitter Blue: Bitter Blue is better known for is dark blueish-green color and texture. Bitter blue blades are coarse, and broad, with large, flat stems. It is tolerant of shade, cold weather, and is well adapted to most soils making it a great option for residential and commercial sod projects.

Empire Zoysia

Empire Zoysia: Empire Zoysia is a full sun and partial shade tolerant grass. Zoysia also tolerates heat, cold and drought making this grass ideal for any Florida sod project. The blades are thin and hardy, yet soft enough to enjoy barefoot while partaking in activities. Tight blade growth gives Empire Zoysia a deep green color and is a favorite among hardy turf grass. Commonly used throughout golf courses, hotel resorts, theme parks, and residential communities in the Florida area. This deep dark green color will make your neighbors jealous and add major curb appeal.

Bermuda

Celebration Bermuda: Celebration is a striking deep blue-green bermudagrass that has finished best in numerous university research studies for wear tolerance and recovery, drought resistance and tolerance and bermudagrass shade tolerance. Found in professional and college sports venues, golf courses, and home lawn. It has an excellent wear and divot recovery, reduced fertilization making this our preferred choice for any Florida sod service project.

Bahia

Argentine Bahia: At From the Ground Up we provide one type of Bahia for Florida sod service projects. Argentine Bahia, this Bahia sod is ideal for homeowners and offices working with a cheaper budget. It requires minimal attention, but proper watering is required.

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Spring is nearly here and what better way to celebrate it than hitting the gardens and installing some colorful perennials to brighten up the lawn. Perennial plants are the backbone of every landscaping garden project.

Unlike annuals they die back to the groundeach year and resurface from their rootstock in the spring time. They generally go through a vegetative reproduction and mainly come in bulbs vs. annuals which will drop seeds to continue the life cycle.

There are many different varieties to choose from. Some will attract butterflies and bees; others will simply add brilliant shades of blue, reds and yellows. Be careful when choosing the right bulbs for your garden, check to make sure they’ll thrive in your plant hardiness zone and what sunlight conditions they require here in Orlando and Central Florida.

How To Landscape With Perennials

Perennials can be short-lived (three years), and some may only flower once (monocarpic) but for the majority of perennials, you’ll be rewarded with a flowering cycle throughout their life (polycarpic). Some species of perennials will last year round; these are evergreen perennials.

Others in temperate climates will grow and bloom during the warm season while losing its foliage in the colder months (deciduous). In some parts of the world, the cycle is determined by wet and dry seasons (tropical). Planting perennials outside of their hardiness zone can reduce their life span and turn them into annuals.

If your soil is clay-like and heavy, it should be spaded and rototilled to a depth of 12”-18” then mix in some nutrients and organic material such as compost, peat moss, sand or other light material. Even if you have adequate drainage and quality soil, you’ll need to till up and prep the ground for installation to a depth of 12”.

Perennial Plants Have Value

The professional landscaper and avid gardener will form a healthy blend of trees, shrubs, perennials and annuals along with different shapes and size when designing a project. Trees and shrubs are main fixtures, whereas perennials provide the majority of the color you’ll see in a well put together a garden.

Perennials range from coneflowers and daylilies to ornamental grasses. There’re sun perennial and shade perennial options available, as well as, a wide range of shapes and sizes along with different colors. Go out there and spruce up your flower beds with a variety of perennials, landscaping your garden is the outdoor canvas, paint away. Remember the folks here at From the Ground Up Landscaping are here to help design and create flower beds or any other outdoor project no matter the size.

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Lawn Watering Guide and Questions

Q. How many days should I water my grass?

A. First off it is very important to conserve and use as little amount of water as possible to maintain a healthy lawn. Again, for this one local county laws are different for everyone so check the amount of days and what days of the week you are allowed to water. You’ll want to water two days a week in the summer months and one day a week in the winter months adjusting the time accordingly. Set the timer for a Monday/Thursday, Tuesday/Friday, Wednesday/Saturday, or a Thursday/Sunday schedule. During some weeks in the summer months, you may be able to turn the system off as long as the grass blades are not wilted and bent inward, this is a sign of drought.

Q. What time should I start and end my watering?

A. Water in the early mornings ending the cycle as the sun rises (between 7-7:30 am) or in the late evenings when winds and evaporation are at their lowest (start time 9 pm). Watering between the hours of 10am-7pm is completely a waste of time and money. During these hours evaporation is at its peak, preventing the water to absorb into the soil. Not all irrigation systems are the same; some have 2 zones others have 20+. Depending on the amount of zones and the amount of minutes for each zone, start time will vary. Again it is important to have the last bit of water hitting the lawn by 7:30 am or as the sun is rising.

Q. How long should I water each zone?

A. The first step is to determine what type of soil you have. If it is a mucky base that retains water for a lengthy amount of time, you will not need to water as often. If it is a dry, sandy base, watering times may need to be increased. Runoff is another factor. If there are areas that slope down, water retention may be slowed down resulting in an increase of watering time.

Irrigating My Lawn

Pay attention to the grass, if the blades are folding inward, this is a sign of drought and an increase in minutes may be needed. Lawns only need about 3/4″ of water per each watering cycle or equivalent to a small tuna fish can. Simply place the cans or measuring cups outside throughout the lawn and turn the system on for twenty minutes. If the cans or measuring cups are full, then twenty minutes is enough time. However if the can or cups are not quite full, the time per zone needs to be adjusted accordingly.

By following these steps along with a proper mowing and fertilization regimen, your lawn will thrive and reap the benefits.

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